A weeklong loop reveals the many moods of the world’s largest freshwater lake.

Back in my awkward adolescence, I was invited to join my aunt and three young cousins on a car camping trip around Lake Superior. It seemed like an incongruous undertaking for my prim aunt, who had once, at a holiday dinner she was hosting, admonished members of our extended family not to bite her fragile crystal water glasses. Yet there she was, loading four kids and a couple of big tents into…

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